This is our heavy duty 2.5" stainless steel downpipe from our SpeedCircuit Turbo kit for the Mazda Protege.
NOTE: THIS DOWNPIPE WILL NOT FIT A STOCK MAZDASPEED PROTEGE TURBO KIT. It will not fit a Mazdaspeed Protege Turbo / T25 flanged turbos. This is made to bolt up to a Ford style 5 bolt discharge. If you are not sure what you have, this probably will not fit!
Heavy duty and built to last
Heavy duty and built to last
Stainless flanges unlike other downpipes that use mild steel flanges that will rust and break
Dump tube for an external wastegate that routes back into the downpipe. Includes a flexible section in the tube.
Includes flexible section towards rear of the pipe
Includes two O2 bungs - one for your primary O2 sensor and one for an optional wideband sensor.
Designed for optimal flow supporting 400hp
Shipped without a flange on the inlet of the wastegate dump tube, so it can be used with various different setups.
3″ Downpipe to replace the stock “S” and “J” pipes.
Order your PEP MSP Downpipe kit today!
PEP downpipes are 304SS throughout which includes the casting, tube, flange, and flex.
Replaces the “S” and “J” pipes with a one piece design
Very robust design and construction
Bolts to the midpipe in the stock location using a generic 2 bolt flange.
4.5 mm wall thickness on the casting so it is very strong!
The only required modification to the car is removal of the tab on the AC compressor.
All PEP downpipes include the following additional parts:
Hardware Kit – comes with 2 bolt spacers and the needed socket cap screws to ease the downpipe install. It also includes hardware for the midpipe connection and a 3″ gasket.
Thermostat Spacer – this is an aluminum 1/2″ thick spacer to space out the water neck. Allows the use of the stock lower radiator hose and comes with gaskets and hardware.
Alternately, you can choose to upgrade to the SpeedCircuit Thermostat Outlet kit at a discounted price. This is a more elegant solution, and includes a new silicon radiator hose.
The pipe is a tight fit and has the minimum clearance to just about anything and everything. Installing this downpipe with a stock midpipe can be done, but is not recommended as it will most likely leak and can be overly difficult to install.
Pipes are made to order and are generally welded and generally shipped the Saturday after the order is placed.
Remove the radiator and thermostat housing – this isn’t 100% required, but will make the job much simpler
Remove the manifold, turbo, and stock s and j pipes as a unit. Leave the oil return fitting attached to the main bearing support plate – to accomplish this remove the flexible line at either the turbo or fitting.
Remove the s and j pipes from the turbo and also remove the top two turbo to downpipe studs.
Install the PEP downpipe to the turbo – use the provided socket cap bolts and spacers in the upper bolt locations. The hole locations on the downpipe do not allow it to wiggle on the turbo. They will allow it to bolt on, but do not allow for any movement.
Reinstall the manifold, turbo, and downpipe combo and the associated oil and coolant lines.
Install the thermostat spacer. Use the provided gaskets and hardware to ensure a leak free connection
Attach the midpipe using the provided gasket and hardware. In extremely rare cases, there may be leaks at the downpipe to midpipe connection. Should you experience this it is useful to loosen up the rest of the flanges throughout the exhaust and tighten things from the front to the back. This will eliminate some stress that can exist when the downpipe and midpipe are not perfectly aligned and will take care of leaks.
Reinstall the radiator, intercooler, pipes, and hoses.
Take a gentle test drive to ensure that everything is tip top. This pipe flows much more air than stock and depending on the routing of your vacuum system you may experience boost spikes. This is a function of the turbo building boost faster than the signal is telling the wastegate to open. Rerouting of the vacuum lines can easily solve the problem if you experience it. Also be sure to make sure that the swing valve isn't contacting the downpipe. If it is, you may need to port the downpipe inlet to make room.